Year One

In one month it will be my 1 year anniversary in Togo. This week also  marks my first year of teaching. It's insane quantifying this experience; on one hand it feels like ions ago I got on the plane at JFK and,on the other hand, it feels like yesterday.
Whichever, the feeling right now is happiness (okay, and the relentless homesickness). I'm so happy to be here, to be getting work done, and to have gotten to this wonderful level of comfort in my village. When I get in a bushtaxi, I'm "heading home" and it's something that after months of learning foreign languages and 'trying to fit in' can't be taken for granted.
The school year is just about over in my village. Next week are exams, which are followed by national exams. Classes, officially, are over. The plan, however, is to hold weekly English club meetings with students throughout the summer months to keep their English going. Of course, this will be through enticing them with soccer and movies (whatever works, right?)
What have I learned after teaching 102 students with just a box of chalk? That I never gave my mom or uncle enough credit for the work of a teacher. There's really no word to sum up the year with 'my kids.' There were days I left so frustrated and wanting to cry, and other days, laughing all my way home from their jokes or inspired by their motivation. I learned working with teenagers is just as difficult as being one, but as long as you remember that, it gets easier.
Respect is a constant challenge in the classroom. On one hand, having a volunteer for a teacher is the craziest thing they just can't get over. I'm not just their first female teacher, but I'm also American, AND I talk and dress funny. Then there are my class rules. A Togolese class is incredibly different than an American classroom. Namely, when it comes to punishment. My students realized early on that I wasn't going to hit them for disobeying me, which instead of generating 'mutual respect' turned more into tyranny. "Put your shoes back on! Put Ousmane down! Stop drawing circles in chalk on your head!" Needless to say, saying in broken French these commands did little to stop them. Instead, like all volunteers, I invoked some creativity and wit, and a whole bunch of patience - and it's gotten better over the months.
While I'm still not quite sure how teachers create a calm, tranquil classroom, I'm hopeful the next school year will bring me a step closer. And their English will keep getting better and better.
It's my favorite thing walking around village and stopping for conversations with students and they tell me in English what they are up to and what they want to do.
Outside of teaching and clubs, my village and I have been busy building a latrine! We were so fortunate to receive a Water & Sanitation grant from the Peace Corps this past month. The village was incredibly appreciative and motivated to do their share. Thus, day after day villagers hauled sand, gravel, and water to the construction site (14 miles round trip! I only counted two people on motos, everyone else biked and walked). Once that transportation was completed, they dug a 6 by 4 foot hole at the construction site. And, mind you, this is peak hot season, so we're talking an average of 110 degrees. Now we are all anxiously waiting as the mason completes the construction.
A huge problem at our school is that until now we were latrine-less. So when students or teachers were sick or just had to go to the bathroom, the answer was to either use the open field next to the school, run across the field into the forest, or go home. Obviously, none of these are great solutions. Thus, the year ahead we look forward to better attendance rates and an overall more comfortable learning environment.
So in short, that's what's been going down in Togo! The next months ahead, are going to be filled with planting trees, painting murals, playing football, camps, and helping train the new volunteers arriving in June!
Thank you for all the encouragement, letters, and care packages. Some days it's inevitably hard to be so far from home but I'm reminded why I'm here every time someone shoots me a message or letter. The care packages are so appreciated, whether they are filled with snacks or things for me or school supplies or games for my students. Even though it's a pretty big world, it's cool for both me and my village to see how that doesn't alter its' compassion.

Where has the time gone?!

It's already February and my blog is seriously lacking. The silver lining is life here is getting busier and this place called Togo is feeling more and more like home.
Second semester started January 6th & I began my second round of teaching English to my Cinquieme class. Additionally, with a Togolese volunteer from an NGO, Plan Togo, we created a Gender class for each of the classes in the Middle School.
After the school bell rings (well, here it's a whistle) I'm keeping busy with a Girls' Club, English Club, and a Life Skills course with local apprentices.
The dream is to continue all of the above and more. Next weekend I'll be heading to a training with my counterpart to think about bigger projects, that'll hopefully take my mind off of the increasing heat and, more importantly, make an impact on education and gender equality in my village.
Work aside, the most notable experience of 2014 thus far was a few Thursdays ago.
On my way back from work I stopped to greet a 52 year old, seamstress in my village, Moulika. She asked if I was free that evening and wanted to go to an event- since both of our French is minimal, I said "sure" and didn't inquire about the specifics.
Que thirty minutes later, I'm in a bush taxi holding a live chicken on my way to what will be an all night beauty pageant, which names a contestant who will go on to compete for the Miss Togo title. And that began the whirlwind weekend with Moulika and her husband, Sonya, of celebrating what is now my new favorite holiday, Koudapaani.
The following day, Friday, was a giant feast and Saturday was filled with each village showcasing their tribal dance. The schedule: Fufu, dancing, more fufu, more dancing, etc.
Koudapaani celebrates the Tchokossi (also known as, Anufo) heritage in the Savanes region.
My village is primarily made up of the two tribes, Anufo and Gam-Gam. The Anufo are generally Muslim and the Gam-Gam tend to be Christian. However, there are several tribes in my village and at least a dozen languages I've come across so far. Other prominent religions are Lutheran, Baptist, and Animism.

For the moment I'm in the regional capitol relishing the joys of internet, electricity, and running water. Tomorrow I head back to Sagbiebou to check out how my kids do on their week of exams (fingers crossed!). But most of all, getting mentally prepared for the hot season looming around the corner.

3 months in Sagbiebou

It's almost December 12th, which marks 6 months here in the wonderful, lizard-abundant Togo.

The past three months I've been in my new home, Sagbiebou. Sagbiebou is a small village in Northern Togo home to roughly 4,000 people. The village was founded around 15 years ago, so it is relatively new and, thus, quite diverse. The two main groups are the Gam-Gams and the Anufo; however, each day I hear a new language - be it Wobi or Ewe or any of the other 72 languages found in the country.

The initial month at post was difficult to say the least. The Peace Corps dropped me off at my doorstep with my mattress, stove, and bags...and I immediately lost all confidence whatsoever. My French was tragic and I had barely grasped any Anufo or Gam-Gam. Walking outside of my compound became my daily challenge; making friends the seemingly unattainable goal. Couscous, the conundrum of my life.

But patience and work attains all, right? Each day I made the awkward conversations in broken French with people in the market and kicked a football around with the boys in my compound, and by October I felt a whole lot less like I just got off the tilt-a-whirl.

October also started much needed work! School began and I met my 102 students. To be honest, teaching started out rough and it still is. Luckily, my kids and I are getting to know each other and we're even having quite a bit of fun along the way. I've also successfully taught them each the word "accident" which they gleefully remind me everytime I drop something :). However, with zero textbooks and only a box of chalk, keeping the attention of 102 students, ranging in age from 10 to 20, is a challenge.

The good news is I couln't ask for better coworkers. There are 6 other teachers and the director. Inititially, being considerablly younger then my counterparts and the only female was daunting but they are all very respectful and welcoming. This coming week we're beginning an English club, followed by a Girls club.

My biggest goal during my service is to help keep more girls in school. The youngest grade at my school is called Sixieme - which is filled with dozens of girls. However, if you visit the class of Troisieme (3 classes up), the number of girls dwindles down to four. Why four? The reasons are numerous: early pregnancy, marriage, financial struggles, trafficking, sister-exchange, harrassment, and, simply, a feeling of "what's the point to continue?"

Luckily, Sagbiebou is a motivated village and the sentiment throughout is that we can do better than four. Not only can we, but we will.

With November at a close and December on it's way - I'm relieved to say my languages are picking up speed and I feel a part of the community. I've met some great leaders and future leaders of Sagbiebou ready and willing to work. I am so excited to see how the next weeks unfold.

au revoir kpalime

           It is difficult to articulate this experience. It is like being born all over again. When I came to Togo I knew very little French and not another person. In two months, I have three families: my Tsevie family, my Kpalime family, and my Peace Corps family.  I went from feeling completely vulnerable and alone to being surrounded by love, encouragement, and friendship from seemingly complete strangers. I didn't know how to do or say anything and was away from everything I understood, but found a sense of belonging. It's impossible to avoid being overly sentimental about such an experience. To be only eleven weeks away from feeling completely isolated, to this, is strange, confusing, and wonderful.

          To say the least, it has all been unexpected. When I first committed to the Peace Corps I thought of it as an individual journey; in reality, it is anything but. I was thinking more about what I would do than who I would meet.

          Tonight my Kpalime family told me that this is my home. So although I am leaving in two days, I am welcome here always and am a part of their family.

          I talked to my sister who studies in Accra about how we both want to travel and experience the world. We both understood the difference of hearing about the rest of the world and actually seeing it.

          We also shared how in the end it is important to be with family. We shared the difficulty of wanting to go on an adventure but the need and desire to one day return. We talked about how our mom will miss us when she returns to university and I go to post, but it is something we have to do. It all comes back to family. I thought about my own family and how I need to explore my curiousities about the world but part of me deeply wants to be with them. How eventually  I will after I see this and that. It's funny how my sister here and I are so alike when at first glance the differences were all I could see.
         
           The day after tomorrow I move to my post. I found out I won't have internet connection unless I travel to another village; thus, my blogging and what have you will be infrequent. I am excited, nervous, hopeful, worried, and everything else all at once.

           The good news is, is that I know if I work hard everything will be alright. I just have to keep on moving forward because eventually wonderful and unexpected things happen. The key is to keep moving. It's not always easy - sometimes it is insanely hot, people laugh at my attempts to speak local or French, and I walk to chants of 'yovo.' Other times, in class students won't understand my accent or way of explaining things; or I will be missing the conveniance of just about everything back home: running water, a refridgerator, McDonalds - you name it. But with all that is bad there is good.

          My post is a perfect fit. There is a lot of work to do and I have a lot of great counterparts to work with. The major goals are to improve English literacy, teaching strategies, and community attitudes towards gender. However, the last volunteer left me an awesome guide to numerous community and regional projects - so my hands will be full.  I am excited.

            After teaching in Kpalime for the past three weeks I can't wait to be in a classroom again. It's the best feeling in the world to see kids excited about learning and to feed their curiousities. I am really looking forward to getting to know my students and serve as a mentor. We have a saying here for teaching "It's better to be a guide on the side, than a sage on the stage." And I really do feel it's not only better but something I really want to be. Sometimes all people need to do great things is encouragement and direction.

           To close, I am in love with Togo. It's not just how beautiful the mountains and palm trees are; or the warm weather or pate rouge; it's the hospitality to strangers, the way they say hello to everyone they pass on the street, and the way a silly American can find home here in a few short weeks (it's eleven to be exact, 95 more to go).

           The only frustration is my inability to express myself here. I want to say more than merci beaucoup or akpe kaka, but as of now, I cannot. One day soon.

C'est normal

Yovo, Yovo? Yep, that's me. Lesson planning over eggs with piment and a glass of pomplemouse? Why not. Chicken running through the classroom? Routine. Walking over fallen logs to cross a stream on the way home? Just another day in the life.

It's crazy how each day and the millions of antecdotes that happen along the way seem less and less bizarre the longer I'm here. After two months, everything from cooking outside to being without running water seems as if I've never known another way.

(Well, I remember it alright, but the pain of withdrawal isn't as great.)

Today marks the last week in Kpalime, yet another ending with a big beginning on the horizon. Next Thursday I move to my village and begin two years of service. As of the last few hours, I am pretty much set for my living arrangements. I got a mattress, gas stove, and a pillow - what more does a girl need?

Buying each thing takes a ton of time and energy, not to mention CFA, so it's a relief to be relatively done. The difficulty is, for example, in buying a pillow I can't just jump in a car and hit up Wal-Mart. I need to flag down a moto, articulate in French where I want to go, and bargain for the price. Then I need to find someone in the marche who sells a pillow or knows someone that does, and once again, bargain for a price. (C'est la prix yovo, n'est pas?) After, I need to find a way to transport everything back on a moto. Which again isn't just a simple matter of having enough free hands, but being able to balance while driving through curvy, dirt paths. Thus, right now it is nearly 20 o'clock and I am exhausted!

Tomorrow I resume teaching. Last week we had an awesome experience guiding a class through a M.A.P. activity. M.A.P. stands for Men as Partners. The point of the program is to discuss gender roles in our community and see how the community as a whole can work towards equality. Because this is a paternal society, when men are on board and working towards gender equality, there's greater opportunity for us to create change. Thus, for our MAP activity we wanted to begin the conversation about gender.

We had students walk to different corners of the room to reveal whether they agreed or disagreed with statements about gender. I learned so much about my students from their responses to questions like, "Are men smarter and stronger than women?" Or, "Who has a tougher job?" It was so exciting to see the students that were passionate about equality and feminism - and, for the responses that differed, it sparked so much energy in me to begin having more of these conversations with students and community members. It was simply very fun to see that kind of energy from students and about a topic I'm really interested in.

While tomorrow my class is focused on grammar - cheers to reflexive pronouns - I'm excited to be back in the classroom. Sometimes it can be frustrating here and I question the point of it all, but moments like the other day during the M.A.P. activity give me some clarity.

As for the moment, I'm crawling under my mosquito net and calling it a night.

EGE Volunteers

Because when you wear pagne the key is to match.

Official

This past Thursday I officially became a Peace Corps volunteer! After two months of training we had our swear-in ceremony where the Country Director, the Togo Ambassador, current volunteers, and our host families welcomed us as PCVs.
At the ceremony I gave a brief speech in the language Anufo and had the chance to catch up with my family from Tsevie and my sister from Kpalime. Afterwards we celebrated until late in the night and I can't express how great it felt. To finally get to this point feels wonderful, exciting, and unbelievably scary.
So now I am in Kpalime for two more weeks of teaching before I head to my new home for two years. The good news is that everything that seemed foreign is now making sense, like how to get a moto ride or shop at the marche or get clothes made. I forget what life is like without bucket baths and fufu. I guess I'm almost integrated. The only bad news is that my French is still struggling. I'm optimistic though and I think if I at least have a good attitude it'll come along eventually, right?
While I'm going to miss my fellow PCVs so much I am super pumped to get to post. I can't wait to get started on projects and begin working in the school.
Until then I am slowly trying to gather things for post. Today I'm going to buy a gas stove and maybe some other household wares. What I'd give for a Target!