Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Bienvenue

       After a little over a month in Togo, I've decided to get on the blog bandwagon. Every day is filled with a million anecdotes and at least two emotional rollercoasters, so it's been difficult to synthesize everything. The site I was using (weebly) isn't accessible here hence the switch to blogger.
      To begin, I'm having a great time here! This evening I just returned from my post, Sagbiebou. I was there for a few days to meet my homologues, the school and students I'll be working with, and begin the process of moving into my house. In short, I love my village. It's located right after the mountain range of the Kara region, and is a series of rolling hills filled with donkeys and baobob trees. Driving through the mountains definitely made me miss guard rails! On the way back we saw about 3 overturned semis - scary, to say the least.
      Anyways, when I first arrived in Sagbiebou it was a bit overwhelming. The Peace Corps car pulled to the side of the route where my entire village was waiting for me. They then proceeded to take all of my bags and carry them on their heads to the chief's hut, singing the whole way. There I was given the name Madam Fatima and introduced to just about everyone - or so I thought. What happened next was a parade to my house where even more people were. My house is in a compound with several other apartments (alongside chickens, goats, and donkeys). Everyone was waiting inside to greet me and help me move in. What a welcome!
        My house is awesome. I have a veranda, perfect for hanging my hammock and two rooms. The walls are painted in beautiful shades of blue and green and have inspirational quotes drawn on each. Right now it's pretty empty except for a table and a cot, so when I return I'll have to seek out a carpenter or just get crafty. I also don't have electricity and my shower is 'under the stars.' Fortunately, before I left my dad gave me a solar panel so I won't be completely in the dark. But I'm getting pretty good at bucket showering and living by candlelight, so I think I'll be okay.
        Everyone in my village, just like in all of Togo, are incredibly nice. Rudeness or even light brashness does not exist here. I spent my three days in village meeting everyone. Visiting the school was especially exciting. There are about 300 students and, including me, eight teachers. I visited on the last day of school when all of the students found out whether or not they passed for the year - so I'm sure we were all equally nervous, albeit, different reasons. I won't say who's nervousness was more understandable, but only one of us had to introduce ourselves in a foreign language to an entire student body.
       The school itself has three giant classrooms and is without electricity or plumbing. There also are very few books and resources. However, amidst these challenges the students all seem incredibly motivated. The teachers and the director are also really passionate about teaching. Thus, I'm really excited to start working there in a few weeks.
         Of course, until then I am focused on improving my language skills. Each day my French gets a little better, but it's constant work. And, of course, after French there is also Anufo, GamGam, and Ewe to conquer. As it's known for, the PC language training is really great and it helps that we live with a host family where we have to communicate solely in French.
         My host family is simply amazing. I couldn't be luckier. The first day I met them was when we arrived in the village, Tsevie and we were lead into a paillot to a room full of families. We were given a sheet of paper then told to stand up in front of everyone and read the family name on the paper. Each family jumped up and gave us hugs and warm welcomes. We then danced in a drum circle for a bit. I kind of felt like this was an adoption, which is fitting as I've really grown fond of my family. I think a lot has to do with how supportive they are, as I've had to learn how to do everything but walk over again. The first few weeks I felt like such a baby. Besides my low French skills, I also didn't know how to do simple things like get water from a well, bucket shower, or wash my clothes by hand (which according to my family, I still don't do correctly. C'est la vie.) To make matters worse my younger brothers would walk me to school and pick me up everyday so I wouldn't get lost.      Luckily, I have now mastered most of these skills and the geography of this village. Of course, in a week I move to Kpalime where I'll be with a new family and have a new map to learn. Which is bitter sweet, sweet because the rumor is they have actual burgers in Kpalime but bitter because I'm really going to miss this family.
         En fin, I'm feeling at home here. The first week or two was pretty rough but I really like Togo. When I'm having a bad day I just walk down a path shaded by palm trees and am greeted by people, who all seem so genuine when they say "Bon arrive." I'm getting used to the church music that goes on all night and the roosters that wake up at 4 am. Training is making me feel prepared for teaching and communicating in general. And the other PCVS are awesome, as well. Go figure a group of people that all chose to live in Africa for two years would have a lot in common.
       Of course, the hardest thing is witnessing the disparities between here and my home in the U.S. Sometimes it's just simply frustrating that there aren't things like streetlights or signs or garbage cans or stores. But most of the time, it's difficult to realize that living without electricity or living in a mud hut, is simply the way of life. It prompts me to reflect on the quote, "How can we live simply so that others may simply live?" I think of all of the luxuries of back home, like a refrigerator or plumbing, and it makes me wonder why does so much of the rest of the world lack these things.